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Seasonal Growing

What to Grow in Autumn and Winter

Your vegetable garden doesn't have to stop producing when the temperatures drop. These cold-hardy crops will keep you harvesting through the colder months.

5 min read15 August 2024

The common idea that vegetable gardening is a summer activity misses half the year. Some of the most satisfying and productive gardening happens in autumn and winter, when cool temperatures suit a different set of crops that can't even be grown successfully in summer heat. With a little planning in late summer, you can be harvesting fresh food well into winter.

The Cool-Season Crops

These vegetables not only tolerate frost - many actively taste better after it. Cold converts starches to sugars, sweetening parsnips, carrots, and Brussels sprouts in a way that warm weather simply can't replicate.

Kale is arguably the hardiest vegetable you can grow. Many varieties survive temperatures down to -10°C (14°F) and keep growing slowly through the coldest months. 'Curly Scotch' and 'Cavolo Nero' (black Tuscan kale) are both excellent winter varieties. Harvest outer leaves and the plant continues producing from the centre.

Brussels sprouts require a long growing season (start in spring for autumn harvest) but reward the patience with months of harvest from the same plants. The flavour genuinely improves with frost. Leave the plants standing through winter - they'll keep producing as long as temperatures don't drop below about -12°C.

Leeks are one of the most practical winter vegetables: they stand in the ground all winter, requiring no storage, and you simply pull them as needed from October through March or April. Sow in early spring for a reliable winter crop.

Hardy salad leaves - corn salad (lamb's lettuce), winter purslane, mizuna, mibuna, and land cress - grow slowly in cold weather but are remarkably hardy. Under fleece or a cold frame, they can be harvested fresh throughout winter.

The All-Important Autumn Sowing Window

Timing is critical for autumn and winter crops. Plants need to reach a certain size before the shortest days of winter because growth almost stops from late November through January in most temperate climates - there simply isn't enough light energy for significant photosynthesis.

As a general rule, most leafy crops sown for winter harvest under cover should be in the ground by September. Crops going outside without protection should be established by late August. This gives them time to develop a good root system and enough leaf area to continue a slow trickle of growth through the darkest months.

Garlic is the exception: plant it from mid-autumn through early winter (it needs a cold period to break dormancy and develop properly) for harvest the following summer.

Overwintering for Spring Harvest

Some crops are sown in autumn specifically to overwinter as small plants and then accelerate in spring, giving you very early harvests before the main season begins:

  • Overwintering onion sets - planted in autumn, harvested in early summer, weeks ahead of spring-planted sets
  • Autumn-sown broad beans - overwinter as small plants, flower and set pods in spring, harvest 6 - 8 weeks before spring-sown crops
  • Garlic - planted October-December, harvested June-July
  • Hardy peas (some varieties) - sown in autumn with protection, produce early spring pods

Root Vegetables: Natural Cold Storage

Many root vegetables don't need to be harvested and stored - they simply stay in the ground until you need them. The soil insulates them, and they remain in perfect eating condition for weeks or months depending on variety and climate.

Parsnips, swede (rutabaga), celeriac, and mainframe carrot varieties all work well this way. Leave the foliage to die back naturally, then harvest as needed through winter. In areas with hard, extended freezes, cover the row with a thick layer of straw held down with fleece to prevent the ground freezing solid and making harvest impossible.

Making the Most of a Cold Frame or Polytunnel

Even a small cold frame transforms winter gardening. Loose-leaf lettuce varieties, spinach, rocket, pak choi, and various oriental mustards will produce fresh leaves all winter under even minimal cover in Zone 7 and warmer, and through most of winter in Zone 6 with a little extra protection. Cut the outer leaves and they regrow; a few square metres of cold frame can supply more salad than most households need.

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